I heard about Nick’s Hamburger Shop from a hamburger authority who suggested that they may have the best hamburger buns in the country. This was over a year ago, and I was in the market for a weekend road trip, so it was time I check it out.
About four hours from the Twin Cities and just over the state line is the well equipped college town of Brookings, SD. Nick’s was pretty easy to spot once you got to the main drag.

I asked the girl who was serving a perpetually full horseshoe counter, if the buns come from a local bakery. She stood strong and replied that the buns are a secret recipe and that the bakery where they’re made is also a secret. Fair enough. Mystery is alluring, I get it.
I don’t want to rant on about my thoughts on what a hamburger bun should be, but I will say that the distinguishing trait about Nick’s buns, that is rarely found in others, is that they have a slightly dense chewiness to them- still fluffy, plain and unobtrusive but carrying a character all their own.
The hamburgers themselves are pretty unremarkable. I’m guessing the patties are about 2.5 oz. of obviously lean ground beef. They’re cooked in a similar fashion to the poached burgers at Pete’s in Prarie du Chein, WI; on a closed griddle in about half an inch of water/grease.

Nick’s

Pete’s
Both Pete’s and Nick’s use fresh beef and cook the patties through, but Pete’s hamburgers are wet and juicy, and Nick’s are dry and uninspiring.

But I would definitely go back to Nick’s. Why? Because of the distinct character. The lack of any background music. The fact that Nick’s Hamburger Shop is just one big horseshoe counter seating 30-35 people with the burger show right in the middle. The classic paper tissue instead of a plate, a la Matt’s Bar. And of course, to break the record of 34 hamburgers in 90 minutes. Child’s play.
Only an hour and a half from Nick’s is the also famed Hamburger Inn in Sioux Falls, SD. An even smaller space than Nick’s, it was empty when we arrived on Saturday, just after noon. A single strip of maybe eight stools facing the griddle, fryer and two white, craigslist looking residential refrigerators.

Opening the front door interupted an intimate and solemn viewing party of the 1997 Tom Selleck/Kevin Kline (not so)hit, In and Out. A considerate, young counter girl and a seasoned griddleman tore themselves away from the 10” TV/VCR combo- adjusted with a protruding piece of cardboard taped to the top to eliminate glare from the flourescent lights. They kindly hopped into action as the quirks began showing themselves- a stack of VHS tapes, mostly semi-modern romances(She’s All That, Save the Last Dance, etc.)under the counter. A sign above the refrigerator with a handwritten amendment that ensures, “Soup of the Day: Chili… always”. It felt like The Weinery without the spacious kitchen, seating area or the urban self awareness.

The burgers were beyond solid- Eggburgers are their signature(just a fried egg on top). A high heat griddle gave the burgers, and well toasted buns, a great crunch. I wish this place was down the street.
After I walked out I noticed this sign in the window:

So if you know a hamburger lover/restauranteur with Sioux Falls connections, a great opportunity awaits.